Milk is the newest trend in body care these days, and it is showing up all over the place. Milk is in the media, in hair salons, wellness centers, day spas, department stores, and health food stores to name a few. There is cow milk, goat milk, soy milk, almond milk, oat milk and milk you may not even care to know it's origin. Why the sudden Popularity? Read on and find out.
Milk has been used for beauty treatments for quite some time, and there is evidence that Cleopatra soaked in baths of donkey or goat milk for hours at a time to beautify her skin. Asian cultures have relied on the benefits of rice milk for centuries to nourish and soothe skin, while cultures in tropical climates have found that coconut milk has numerous skin smoothing properties.
Milk comes from the mammary glands of female mammals, so it makes perfect sense that it would be loaded with nutrients. Milk is also abundant in many plant species and is usually derived from nuts, seeds and fruits. Today, milk of both plant and animal origin can be found in all sorts of body care products.
For some, milk brings to mind thoughts of wholesomeness, simplicity, or purity, and this easily draws people to try body treatments and products that contain any form of it. Who wouldn't want to soak in a creamy, milky-white bath of cinnamon scented oat milk or have their body covered in a warm elixir made with milk, honey and orange zest? The possibilities are endless: peaches and cream, almond milk and roses, chocolate-mint cream, or coconut milk and lime. Many spas around the world offer some type of treatment that utilizes milk, while body care product lines have introduced it into shampoos, soaps, lotion and nail care.
Milk contains lactic acid, which actually dissolves the glue that binds dead skin cells to our skin's surface. Consequently, the milk is sloughing off dead skin cells and acting as an exfoliant. When we exfoliate our skin, it automatically feels softer, but when exfoliation is combined with the skin smoothing and hydrating effects of milk, it may no longer feel like your own. Milk contains proteins, enzymes, amino acids, and antioxidants, all incredibly valuable for our skin. The milk proteins are skin-enhancing since they promote smoothness and help to strengthen skin structure. The milk enzymes and amino acids are responsible for stimulating the skin's natural moisture barrier, which makes way for intense hydration and skin cell regeneration. Finally, milk's antioxidants are great for combating environmental damage and provide future protection from further damage
Perhaps you now have an understanding of milks sudden popularity in the body care industry. Not only do the combinations of milk and other elements sound delicious, but they also provide nutrition for the skin, often times are all natural, and can be just plain fun! Next time you are near body care products, take a look, and I'm sure you'll find some milk around.
Source: http://www.searchmalta.com/ezine/spalook/milk.shtml
Sunday, September 24, 2006
HEALTH BENEFITS OF WATER
How 8 Glasses A Day Keeps Fat AwaySource: http://www.highvibrations.org/archive3/water.htm
Incredible as it may seem, water is quite possibly the single
most important catalyst in losing weight and keeping it off.
Although most of us take for granted, water may be the only
true "magic potion" for permanent weight loss.
Water supresses the appetite naturally and helps the body
metabolize stored fat. Studies have shown that a decrease in
water intake will cause fat deposits to increase, while an
increase in water intake can actually reduce fat deposits.
Here's why: The kidneys can't function properly without enough
water. When they don't work to capacity, some of their load is
dumped onto the liver. One of the liver's primary functions is
to metabolize stored fat into usable energy for the body. But
if the liver has to do some of the kidney's work it can't
operate at full throttle. As a result, it metabolizes less fat
more fat remains stored in the body and weight loss stops.
Drinking enough water is the best treatment for fluid retention.
When the body gets less water,it perceives this as a threat to
survival and begins to hold on to every drop. Water is stored
in extracellular spaces (outside the cell). This shows up as
swollen feet, legs and hands.
Diuretics offer a temporary solution at best. They force out
stored water along with some essential nutrients. Again, the
body perceives a treat and will replace the lost water at the
first opportunity. Thus, the condition quickly returns.
The best way to overcome the problem of water retention is to
give your body what it needs -- plenty of water. Only then will
stored water be released.
If you have a constant problem with water retention, excess salt
may be to blame. Your body will tolerate sodium only in a
certain concentration. The more salt you eat the more water
your system retains to dilute it.
But getting rid of unneeded salt is easy -- just drink more
water. As it's forced through the kidneys it takes away excess
sodium.
The overweight person needs more water than a thin one. Larger
people have larger metabolic loads. Since we know that water is
the key to fat metabolism, it follows that the over weight
person needs more water.
Water helps to maintain proper muscle tone by giving muscles
their natural ability to contract and by preventing dehydration.
It also helps to prevent the sagging skin that usually follows
weigh loss -- shrinking cells are buoyed by water which plumps
the skin and leaves it clear, healthy and resilient.
Water helps rid the body of waste. During weight loss, the body
has a lot more waste to get rid of -- all that metabolized fat
must be shed. Again, adequate water helps flush out the waste.
Water can help relieve constipation. When the body gets too
little water, it siphons what it needs from internal sources.
The colon is one primary source. Result? Constipation. But
when a person drinks enough water, normal bowel function usually
returns.
So far, we've discovered some remarkable truths about water and
weight loss:
* The body will not function properly without enough
water and can't metabolize stored fat efficiently.
* Retained water shows up as excess weight.
* To get rid of excess water you must drink more water.
* Drinking water is essential to weight loss.
How much water is enough? On the average, a person should drink
8-ounce glasses every day. That's about 2 quarts. However, the
overweight person needs one additional glass for every 25 pounds
of excess weight. The amount you drink also should be increased
if you exercise briskly or if the weather is hot and dry.
Water should preferably be cold. It's absorbed into the system
more quickly than warm water. And some evidence suggests that
drinking cold water can actually help burn calories. To
utilize water most efficiently during weight loss, follow this
schedule:
Morning: 1 quart consumed over a 30-minute period.
Noon: 1 quart consumed over a 30-minute period.
Evening: 1 quart consumed between five and six o'clock.
When the body gets the water it needs to function optimally,
it's fluids are perfectly balanced. When this happens, you have
reached the "breakthrough point." What does this mean?
* Endocrine-gland function improves.
* Fluid retention is alleviated as stored water is lost.
* More fat is used as fuel because the liver is free to
metabolize stored fat.
* Natural thirst returns.
* There is a loss of hunger almost over night.
If you stop drinking enough water, your body fluids will be
thrown out of balance again, and you may experience fluid
retention, unexplained weight gain and loss of thirst. To
remedy the situation you'll have to go back and force another
"breakthrough."
Healthy Living: What You Can Do to Keep Your Health
Does what I do really affect my health?
Very much so. All of the major causes of death--cancer, heart disease, stroke, lung disease and injury--can be prevented by things you do.
Don't smoke or use tobacco.
Using tobacco is one of the most dangerous things you can do. One out of every 6 deaths in the United States can be blamed on smoking. More preventable illnesses are caused by tobacco than by anything else.
Limit how much alcohol you drink.
This means no more than 2 drinks a day for men, and 1 drink a day for women. One drink is a can of beer (12 ounces), a 4-ounce glass of wine or a jigger (1 ounce) of liquor.
Too much alcohol can damage the liver and contribute to some cancers, such as throat and liver cancer. Alcohol also contributes to deaths from car wrecks, murders and suicides.
Eat right.
See the boxes below for tips on eating healthy. Heart disease, some cancers, stroke, diabetes and damage to your arteries can be linked to what you eat. Fiber, fruits and vegetables can help reduce your risk of some cancers. Calcium helps build strong bones.
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What to eatWhat not to eat
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Lose weight if you're overweight.
Many Americans are overweight. Carrying too much weight increases your risk for high blood pressure, high cholesterol, diabetes, heart disease, stroke, some cancers, gallbladder disease and arthritis in the weight-bearing joints (like the spine, hips or knees). A high-fiber, low-fat diet and regular exercise can help you lose weight gradually and help you keep it off.
Exercise.
Exercise can help prevent heart disease, high blood pressure, diabetes, osteoporosis, depression and, possibly, colon cancer, stroke and back injury. You'll also feel better and keep your weight under control if you exercise regularly. Try to exercise for 30 to 60 minutes, 4 to 6 times a week, but any amount is better than none.
Don't sunbathe or use tanning booths.
Sun exposure is linked to skin cancer, which is the most common type of cancer. So it's best to stay out of the sun altogether or to wear protective clothing and hats. Sunscreen may help protect your skin somewhat if you can't avoid being exposed to the sun's harmful rays.
Practice safer sex if you're having sex.
The safest sex is between 2 people who are only having sex with each other and who don't have a sexually transmitted disease (STD) or share needles to inject drugs.
If you're at all uncertain about your partner, use latex condoms and a spermicide (sperm-killer). If you're concerned you may be at risk of having an STD, see your doctor about being tested.
Control your cholesterol level.
If your cholesterol level is high, keep your level down by eating right, such as by reducing how much fat you eat, and by exercising.
Control high blood pressure.
High blood pressure increases your risk for heart disease, stroke and kidney disease. To control it, lose weight, exercise, eat less sodium, drink less alcohol, don't smoke and take medicine if your doctor prescribes it.
Keep your shots up to date.
Adults need a tetanus-diphtheria booster every 10 years. People 50 or older and others at risk should get a flu shot. Ask your doctor if you need other shots.
Check your breasts.
Breast cancer is the second most common cause of death for women. Examine your breasts every month beginning about age 20. Talk to your doctor about how to check your breasts. Have your doctor check your breasts every 1 to 2 years beginning when you're 40. After age 50, you should have a mammogram every 1 to 2 years.
Get regular Pap smears.
Cancer of the cervix in women can be detected by regular Pap smears. Start having them when you begin having sex or by age 18. You'll need them once a year at first, until you've had at least 3 normal Pap tests. After this, you should have them at least every 3 years.
Ask your doctor about other cancer screenings.
Adults over age 50 should ask their doctor about being checked for colorectal cancer. Men over age 50 should discuss with their doctor the risks and benefits of being screened for prostate cancer.
Should I have a yearly physical?
Health screenings are replacing the yearly physical. Instead of every person getting the same exams and tests, only the appropriate ones are given. Talk to your family doctor about your risk factors and what tests and exams are right for you.
Source: http://familydoctor.org/x4959.xmlSaturday, September 23, 2006
Face
Put your best face forward with these expert makeup tips.
Source: http://www.lhj.com/
Source: http://www.lhj.com/
Makeup Dos, Don'ts, and Maybes
Rules to follow -- and some to break.
By Sonia Kashuk
By Sonia Kashuk
When we were little girls playing dress up, it was for the sheer joy of it. There was no pressure and no one told us what was right and wrong to wear. Putting on makeup can still feel that way. Every woman arrives at her own look through trial and error. It's a never-ending -- and exciting -- experiment. So the fewer rules there are, the better!
But aren't there a few makeup rules? Are there any must-have-or-else beauty necessities? There are no rules about what you choose to wear, but there are rules on how to apply it. Here are a few:
| Dos |
| Makeup should only go on a freshly washed and moisturized face. Whatever you're doing, you have to see what you're doing. Have bright, even light in front of your bathroom mirror. Blend. Blend. And did I mention...blend! You don't want to see where color begins or ends. Whether it's foundation, blush, or eye color: no hard, drawn lines. An exception to this would be eyeliner, but I prefer even that to be smudged. |
| Don'ts |
| Pink complexions should not wear pinkish foundations. No way. No how. Not ever! My pet peeve (take it for what it's worth) is wearing dark lipliner and a lighter lip color. This is what I call "the inflatable doll" look. Scary. |
| Maybes |
| When it comes to color, take direction from you hair, rather than from your eyes or your clothes. Or not! It used to be a no-no to wear shimmer eye shadows on mature faces (shimmer accentuated the lines). But most shimmer formulas are so refined now, just about anyone can wear them. Are some looks strictly day or night? Nah. (Besides, when you're coming home from a party at 5 a.m. is it day or is it night? These are the mysteries of life.) When it comes to eye shadow, stay in the same color family if you're wearing more than one tone. Then again, a color mixed with a neutral looks great -- pink with brown, or blue with brown. Want to wear only lip color? Great. Only concealer? Fantastic. Eye shadow without mascara? Definitely. Lipstick on your cheeks? Genius. You want chartreuse shadow? And you want it for everyday? Go ahead -- I have a pair of chartreuse lampshades that absolutely make the room! Sonia Kashuk's book, Real Beauty, is available at bookstores nationwide. Source: http://www.lhj.com |
Friday, September 22, 2006
9 Beauty Rules to Break
Forget the old beauty maxims and find your own style.
Rule: Redheads can't wear red Reality: There was something to this beauty rule years ago, when most red lipsticks had a blue base that made them pinkish when applied. The pink in the lipstick clashed with the delicate pink undertones of a redhead's complexion. But today there is a wide spectrum of reds, including golden and brownish-red hues that enhance the natural tones in a redhead's hair and freckled skin, according to makeup pro Bobbi Brown. New reds to try: Bobbi Brown Lip Color in Burnt Red ($18; visit Bobbibrown.com) and L'Oreal Colour Riche Lipcolour in Red Hot ($8.25).
Rule: Oil-free products are the only option for oily skin Reality: "When you strip oil from your skin's upper layers, it just prompts the skin to produce more oil," says Susan West Kurz, president of Dr. Hauschka Skin Care. Unlike mineral oil, which sits on the surface and can clog pores, botanically based oils can actually help prevent blemishes, as they are quickly absorbed by the skin. This not only softens skin, but helps normalize oil flow. A few choices: Decleor Aromessence Ylang Ylang Purifying Concentrate (use morning and night before moisturizer; $42, for stores, 800-722-2219); Dr.Hauschka Skin Care Normalizing Day Oil (use in the morning as your moisturizer; $26.95, to order, 800-247-9907); and Clarins Lotus Face Treatment Oil (use at night before moisturizer, $39).
Rule: Don't tweeze above your eyebrows Reality: Any stragglers above your brows can create a shadow, and as a result, the shape of your brows won't look as clean and defined. For mistakeproof grooming above the brow, New York-based makeup pro Lea Siegel suggests this trick: Brush brows into place, then go over them with a white makeup pencil. Strays above the whitened area can be tweezed without disrupting the line of your brows. Pluck one hair at a time, using a good pair of tweezers. One of our faves: Tweezerman Slant Tweezers ($18; to order, 888-647-7377).
Rule: The best place to spritz on fragrance is behind your ears Reality: Fragrance expert Jo Malone, founder of Jo Malone London, says that your favorite scent will be most alluring -- and less overpowering to others -- when you spritz it down the center of your body, from below the collarbone to between the breasts. The natural body heat you generate in these places warms up the fragrance, which helps it last longer. Try a spritz in your hair, too; your hair's natural oils will help fragrance cling to your tresses. (But don't do this if your hair is highlighted, because alcohol in the fragrance could distort your haircolor.)
Rule: Don't wear lipstick without a lipliner Reality: Most shades, especially creamy formulas, look more natural if you skip the liner. To help lipcolor go on neatly, New York City-based makeup artist Genevieve suggests that you apply it with a lip brush. (Use a lipliner when your lipstick is a very dark or super-bright shade: Deep hues have more pigment, which tends to wander, and liner creates a barrier.)
Rule: Oily hair doesn't need a conditioner Reality: Hair can be oily at the scalp and dry at the ends. Just avoid rich conditioners that weigh down hair, says Yves Durif of Yves Durif Salon, in New York City. To add shine, try Durif's post-shampoo rinse: Mix one part apple-cider vinegar with 20 parts water; apply to ends; rinse. Or use an oil-free conditioner like Frederic Fekkai Apple Cider Clean Conditioner ($18.50; visit Sephora.com) and Neutrogena Clean for Color-Defending Conditioner ($4.99).
Rule: The apples of your cheeks are the only spot to apply blush Reality: If you have a perfectly oval face shape, stick with the apples. For the rest of us, makeup pro Alyssa Evans for Nubest & Co. Salon, in Manhasset, New York, offers these strategies. Square face: Brush blusher just under the cheekbones. Round: Sweep blusher along cheekbones, up toward temples. Heart-shaped: Start at outer eye corners and glide toward temples.
Rule: You must match foundation to the skin on your jawline Reality: Most of us have some redness or some discolored, blotchy areas. Testing foundation on the face could leave you with a shade that's too pink. To even out skin tone, match a shade to the skin on your neck, suggests Lea Siegel. One skin-flattering formula we love is Origins Nude and Improved Bare-face Makeup with SPF 15 Sunscreen ($15). Its soft-focus diffusers help your complexion glow in any light.
Rule: Blue eyeshadow looks dated Reality: Caking on bright turquoise shadow is a sure way to say you're stuck in the '80s. But cool silvery or smoky shades of blue imparts a fresh and modern look. The trick is to keep the rest of your makeup soft, advises Bobbi Brown -- no loud fuchsia lipstick! Try pairing a subtle blue shadow with a navy eyeliner. Some of spring's prettiest blues: Aveda Shadow plus Vitamins in Perception ($10; for stores, 800-328-0849) and Revlon Illuminance Creme Shadow in Moody Blues ($6.50). -- Carol Straley
Source: http://www.lhj.com/
The Key to Flawless Foundation
Which formula -- and how much -- you should be using.
By Sonia Kashuk
Types of Foundation
By Sonia Kashuk
Types of Foundation
 | ;) Sonia Kashuk |
| |
Most of us keep our foundation as close as our ATM card. And just like crisp cash, we tend to "spend" too much of it. That's the most common problem women make -- putting foundation all over their face when that's very rarely needed. When you get the right shade, and you know how and where to use it, you'll find you need very little.
But first -- which form do you choose? There are sticks, liquids, creams, and powders. If you have normal skin, you're fine with anything. Dry skin is best with a cream or liquid -- these glide easily over the skin. Oily skin is best with an oil-free liquid but a powder foundation's even better.
I almost always advocate the sheerest coverage possible. I like to see real skin through any foundation. It has life in it -- freckles and little idiosyncrasies are what make you...you. Liquid is the sheerest form of foundation. Powder and dual finish powder are less sheer. And cream can be the heaviest, most opaque of all.
Once you choose what to use, you can still control the amount of coverage. With a cream or liquid, use a damp sponge, foundation brush, or -- my favorite tool for applying foundation -- fingertips. I typically squirt some from my favorite pump formula onto the back of my hand and dab on from there. This warms it somewhat, and I don't have to deal with a dispenser while I apply.
To build more coverage, apply in thin layers, using a gentle patting motion so you never pull on the skin. You can also go super sheer by blending cream or liquid foundations with a bit of moisturizer. With a pressed powder foundation, you can apply wet or dry with a sponge. Wet, you get more coverage. Dry will be more sheer.
It's also good to think ahead to what makeup you plan to apply over your foundation. Cream products are compatible with cream foundations. Powder colors work best over powder foundations.
So -- cream blush on top of a dual finish foundation? Bad idea. The powder will "grab" the cream blush and you won't be able to blend it into place. Powder blush on top of a liquid or cream foundation? Also a bad idea -- unless you brush loose powder over the foundation to create a compatible surface for your powder blush. Similarly, cream eye shadows should go over a cream foundation; powder shadows over powder.
A final word about finish: If you've used a cream foundation, your face will be dewy. If you want creams to go matte, add a final dusting of loose powder.
What Color Is Best?
Foundation should always match your skin tone. Don't try to fake a porcelain face when you aren't that fair. Likewise, don't try to fake a two week vacation in St. Bart's if you aren't that dark. Anything other than your real color will look like a mask.
When you put foundation on, it should disappear on the skin -- then you know it's the right shade. Another plus to a perfect match is that you won't have to wear it over your entire face, which is important because (I can't say this enough) most women don't need foundation all over.
Source: http://www.lhj.com
Made-for-You Beauty
Frustrated by one-size-fits-all products? Our beauty director took a tour of the world of customized skincare products, makeup, and perfume. Do try this at home.
By Patricia Reynoso
Soaps and Concealers
WANTED: The perfect concealer
Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/MadeforYouBeauty_02142005.xml&catref=cat1530002&page=2
By Patricia Reynoso
Soaps and Concealers
| WANTED: A yummy-smelling soap for me and my kids | ||||
In my world, where getting my 4-year-old twins to wash up is a daily battle, a tempting hand soap is an essential. So, I figured, why not have one that we all love? How I got it: Aware of Garden Botanika's custom program, where nine body products can be personalized with up to three scents, I visited the Web site to make my selections. I knew that I wanted something musky rather than floral, yet I was tempted by the descriptions of the floral notes. In the end I opted for a mix of Vanilla Musk, Almond, and Transparent Floral (it sounded like "petals lite" to me). When the bottle arrived, I took a big happy whiff of my one-of-a-kind scent. It was a hit with the kids, too! Price: $11. How you can get it: Visit www.gardenbotanika.com or call 800-968-7842. Full refunds are offered. | ||||
WANTED: The perfect concealer
Ask me which beauty product is my desert-island must-have and I'll answer: "concealer!" Yet as much as I adore how it helps me fake the look of eight hours' sleep, I'm often overwhelmed with the many color choices available.
How I got it: At the Manhattan studio of Three Custom Color Specialists (3C), a company specializing in customized makeup, I met with one of 3C's makeup artists. After telling him which areas I wanted to camouflage -- under my eyes, my chin, and around my nose -- he hand-blended shades for me to try. I opted for a three-shade palette, ideal for each of my trouble areas. I never leave home without it now!
Price: $36.50 for one concealer and $19.50 for each extra shade. Personal consultation: $65-$105.
How you can get it: Call 888-262-7714 for a consultation in Manhattan. Or go to www.threecustom.com to get any shade created.
Glosses, Scents, and Skincare| WANTED: A multitasking lip gloss |
| Did I really need another lip gloss? No. But I was intrigued by the idea of a gloss that was that perfect neutral shade, plus a whole lot more. How I got it: I put the kids to bed and logged on to www.reflect.com, the Web site for Reflect-True Custom Beauty. I clicked on to the page for the Elixir Custom Gloss, where I settled on a mulberry shade that looked ideal for my skin tone. I passed on the shimmer option, but I did add the mint extract (smells great and tingles), plus a lip plumper for extra volume and hydration. The best part: I was able to name it! (My choice: MAMA.) When it arrived, I was pleased that it looked exactly as it did on-screen. Price: $22.50. How you can get it: Log on to www.reflect.com and follow the simple instructions. If you're unhappy with your creation, send it back with your corrections and your receipt, and Reflect.com will replace it. |
| WANTED: A truly personal scent |
| My mother, a fragrance fanatic, can't believe that I own just a few fragrances. It's not that I don't like fragrances, I tell her, it's simply that I haven't found one that I love enough to wear every single day. But, I thought, what if I created my own? How I got it: At Creative Scentualization, a fragrance company that offers an online version of its customization program, I answered a quiz about my favorite colors and locales that helped narrow my sensory preferences. A few days later, I received three sample vials of the "Patricia" fragrance. They were all slightly different, with a mix of amber, vanilla, and gardenia notes. The winner? The one that made my husband say, "You smell good!" Price: $25 for three samples. Order a 1-ounce bottle to get a 15-percent discount, $51 all told. How you can get it: Go to www.creativescent.com or call 888-799-2060. You're entitled to one free revision, but all sales are final. |
| WANTED: Super skincare |
| I'm pretty happy with my skincare routine, but when it comes to banishing the redness around my nose, nothing seems to work. How I got it: I was drawn to Essencia, a natural skincare line based in Shreveport, Louisiana, both for its use of essential oils and because I would get to discuss my concerns with a skincare expert over the phone. Essencia's expert created the Rose Geranium Facial Restorative Serum to help reduce redness. I received the product a week later, and while I haven't seen a big change yet, I know that's to be expected. For now, I'm happy to keep using it -- it smells amazing! Price: At $240 for the consultation and two bottles of customized product, this is one pricey solution. But reorders cost just $15 and up. How you can get it: Schedule a 15-minute phone consultation by calling 866-568-5848 or e-mailing consult@essenciaonline.com. |
Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/MadeforYouBeauty_02142005.xml&catref=cat1530002&page=2
Secrets for Flawless Makeup
10 expert tricks to help you get a polished makeup look.
By Lisa Kovalovich
Foundations, Primers, and More
By Lisa Kovalovich
Foundations, Primers, and More
| ;) |
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For the prettiest, most presentable makeup look, skip the trends and follow these tips. You're guaranteed to look polished and perfect!
1. Buy the proper foundation. An off-color base will make every other cosmetic you apply look not quite right. Splurge on foundation at the department store, where you can ask for help in finding the right shade.
2. Prime your lids. Most women's eyelids are translucent, thereby looking darker or more blue than the rest of the face. This discoloration can change the color of the eye products you wear. Before you apply shadow or liner, prime lids with a special base for lids, or with a light swipe of foundation followed by powder. Not only will this even the tone of your eyelids, it will also make your shadows go on more smoothly and last longer.
3. Avoid contouring with blush. Sweeping on cheek color in stripes in an effort to create cheekbones only succeeds in making you look dated and like you're trying too hard. For a more classic, attractive look, apply blush to the apples of your cheeks in a circular motion, and avoid swiping the blush out toward your hairline.
4. Set makeup with loose powder. Loose powder is easier to control and more versatile than its pressed cousin. What's more, it sets every type of cosmetic, from foundation to eye shadow to even lipstick. Pick a loose powder with a yellow undertone to ensure it works with your skin tone, and apply with a fluffy powder brush.
5. Pluck meticulously. Even if you wear no other makeup, keeping your brows groomed perfectly gives you an instantly polished appearance. So pluck whenever you see a stray hair come in (they appear sneakily). That could mean every day, depending on how quickly your eyebrow hairs grow!
6. Use great brushes. Your makeup application is only as good as the brushes you use, because high-quality brushes allow you to apply and blend better than anything else. At minimum, you need a fluffy powder brush, a flat eye shadow brush, a tapered blush brush, and an eyeliner brush.
7. Line lips right. Lip liner can enhance a polished makeup look, but it must be imperceptible when you're wearing it. That means you should go for a liner shade that matches your lipstick exactly, or one that is so neutral, it blends into any color you wear. What not to do: Wear a lip liner that's several shades darker than your lipstick. That look is over!
8. Pick cream lipstick. The most wearable and polished formula for lipstick is a cream: It's long-wearing and gives full color, but has a soft shine and moisturizing properties, too. Avoid heavy matte lipstick and too-shiny glosses.
9. Find your perfect neutral shadow. The most versatile eye shadow? A neutral color -- with a hint of shimmer if you like -- that makes your eyes pop. Darker shadows tend to age the eyes and look costumey, not elegant. Some shades that fit: bone, taupe, light heather, and caramel.
10. Choose colors that work together. Your whole look will appear more subtle and polished if the makeup shades you wear all fall within the same color family. So if you love a cool white shadow, choose a blush and lipstick with a cool, pink undertone. Similarly, if your favorite blush is a warm peach, go for shadow and lipstick with a warm undertone, too.
Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/SecretsforFlawlessMakeup_06022004.xml&catref=cat1530002&page=2
Mortifying Beauty Moments
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| ;) |
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Truth: Even the most polished, put-together women make a beauty faux pas now and then. Here, 10 brave readers share their worst beauty nightmares:
"I was rushing one morning, trying to get both myself and my 2-year-old ready to go. After brushing my teeth and wrestling my daughter into her car seat, we were on our way. When I dropped her off at daycare, I stopped to chat with a few other parents. Only when I got back into my car and looked in my rear view mirror did I realize that I had chalky white toothpaste remnants all over my mouth!" -- Barb, 37
"I'm a bartender in New York City, so people see my hands constantly. That's why I spend a small fortune on tips for my nails. Part of my job is to help my customers light their cigarettes. So one night I flicked a lighter for a customer, and in an instant, one of my plastic tips caught on fire! The bar smelled like burnt plastic the whole night." -- Jamie, 41
"I was getting ready for a party and noticed a huge zit on my chin. It was so ready to pop, it was practically pulsating. I tried to squeeze it, but didn't get anywhere, so I piled on some concealer instead (not that it actually concealed anything, but at least the zit wasn't so obvious). Well, I went to the party, chatted, drank, laughed, and totally forgot about my zit. Toward the end of the night, I went into the bathroom and realized that the zit had started to ooze, leaving a big crusty mess on my face. If only I had done a mirror check once during the night!" -- Jeannie, 30
"I was in the process of growing my hair long when I went to my hairdresser for a trim. We decided it was time for layers. I watched as eight inches of hair fell to the floor and when he was done cutting, he turned me around to look in the mirror. I had a mullet. He said he 'left the length' in back. But everything else frizzed up and none of the layers blended at all. He said I wasn't using enough product. So I decided to literally cut my losses -- I went to another stylist and had my hair bobbed, then wore it in a tiny pony tail for two months because I was so traumatized." -- Roya, 35
"I always carry tweezers in my travel bag because I have very full eyebrows and need to pluck practically every day to keep them groomed. So when I went on vacation last summer, I toted them along -- but I didn't realize that you can't take tweezers on an airplane anymore. They were confiscated, and by the end of my two-week trip, my eyebrows looked like big, bushy spiders." -- Marisa, 40
"When I arrived in Atlanta for a business meeting, the airline told me they had lost one of my bags -- the bag containing my makeup. My meeting the next day was with very important clients, and it was 11 p.m., so I was in a panic; I couldn't show up at the meeting bare-faced! So I flagged down a taxi and told the driver I'd pay whatever it took for him to help me find a drugstore that was still open so I could buy mascara, lipstick, and eyebrow pencil. It took us two hours to find a place. I just thank goodness I could expense the cab ride!" -- Cheryl, 53
"At one time my hair was bleached blond. I decided I wanted to perm it, but didn't feel like spending money for a salon perm. So I tried it myself. I put the solution on my hair, let it process, and proceeded to try to take out the rollers. But when I put my hand on my hair, it felt like sticky cotton candy. I called a salon in a panic, but the stylist who answered said the damage was done -- my hair was fried. I made a next-day, early-morning appointment there to try to salvage my locks. All they could do was cut all my hair off! I wound with up a three-inch long, not-so-trendy haircut, and no curls to speak of." -- Daisy, 48
"I'm a teacher and only have about 20 minutes in the middle of the day to eat lunch. One day, I was in a rush, so I grabbed a slice of pizza from the cafeteria and gobbled it down. My afternoon class was just about to start, but I managed to swipe on a bit of lipstick before my students came into the room; I wanted to look presentable! I taught the whole lesson -- a lecture, where I was talking the entire time -- and when class was over, one of my students told me I should look in a mirror. I did, and saw that my lipstick was perfect -- but I had missed the hunk of cheese that was stuck onto my front tooth!" -- Andrea, 41
"One winter I stopped at the gas station to put air in my tires before going to a fancy dinner party. I realized my hands might get black from the soot on my tires, so I put on my gloves to protect them. It was a windy night and my long hair kept getting in my face when I was trying to connect the hose to the tire, so I had to keep brushing it out of my eyes. A mechanic came out to see if I needed help, and after finishing the job for me, he told me I should wipe my face. I looked in my side mirror and saw that I had black soot all over my cheeks -- it had gotten on my gloves and onto my face when I brushed my hair out of my eyes. Thank goodness he told me or I would have showed up at the party that way!" -- Adrienne, 32
"My hair is curly, and I usually wear it natural. But for a recent date, I decided to try straightening it. I bought a straightening iron, and went to work ironing out my long waves. When my date picked me up, he suggested we go ice skating at a nearby rink. I hadn't been ice skating since I was a teenager, so I agreed wholeheartedly. We got to the rink and skated for hours. But after a while, I noticed him giving me a funny look. I excused myself to go to the bathroom, and found that the moisture in the air from the ice had caused my once-straight hair to frizz up into a pyramid-shaped halo! I pulled on my hat, suggested we leave, and made a mental note to both use straightening balm the next time I decided to de-curl and to carry a hair elastic with me at all times in case of emergency." -- Lauren, 33
Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/MortifyingBeautyMoments_04182005.xml&catref=cat1530002
Top 10 Skincare Tips
Sonia Kashuk shares 10 skin commandments to live by.
By Sonia Kashuk
By Sonia Kashuk
We all dream of getting a miracle in a bottle. And so much ad copy leads us to believe it exists: An instant facelift. Zero pores. Paper smoothness. But our obsession with being flawless is absurd. Wrinkles happen -- adding character and depth to the face. Other changes occur as well -- features can become more pronounced and bone structure can become more angular over time. We get scars. We get freckles. And other dings and dents. Are these catastrophes? Or merely a map of our lives? Certain products can help to offset all this, but aging is a natural (and beautiful) process that happens to all of us. And acceptance, not denial, looks better on everyone.
A lot of product lines have gotten way too complicated -- aside from being costly, they take up too much time. You can keep it simple, and just as effective. Many of us overindulge our skin anyway -- if we're dry, we tend to overmoisturize; if we're oily, we tend to overstrip.
Great skincare, like makeup, doesn't have to cost a lot. A $100 jar of moisturizer? Forget it! Not many of us could afford a daily routine in that price range. So don't get caught up in the marketing madness and don't pay for pseudo science. Your endorsement is the only one that counts.
Here, my top 10 skin tips:
- Protect yourself from the sun -- use sunscreen and avoid direct sunlight between the hours of 10 and 2.
- Don't -- I repeat -- don't smoke. Your skin is a large organ and it needs a lot of circulation. Smoking impairs that dramatically. That's why smokers' skin looks dull and gray. Instead of having oxy-generated blood delivered to the surface of the skin, they're getting poisons and oxidants.
- Get adequate rest and nutrition.
- Protect yourself from stress -- both emotional and environmental stress.
- Wash your face twice a day and put on the proper treatment product. I'm amazed when women tell me they don't wash their face in the morning. A lot of icky stuff collects overnight -- dead skin cells, dirt, and dust!
- Don't neglect certain areas of the skin. Elbows, heels, neck, and decolletage need moisturizing, and your scalp and the tops of your feet need sun protection.
- Touch your face less and wash your hands more! Don't get too surgical on yourself. It's very tempting to pick, poke, squeeze, and scratch in front of the mirror. But the more you traumatize the skin, the greater your risk of scarring. Apply treatment products and let them work.
- Keep your makeup clean. Replace the sponges in your compact on a regular basis. Now and then, toss the whole works and start fresh -- the average shelf life for cosmetics is 6 to 12 months. Don't buy products so expensive that you'll be heartbroken if you have to throw them away.
- Exercise moderation. More is not always better. Moisturizer, for example, is the most overused product in America. We've been bamboozled by cosmetic companies into thinking every square inch of our body has to be slathered. And it's simply not true. Exfoliators are another thing to be careful with. Used too often, they overacidify and irritate your skin.
- Beware of counter girls. If it were up to them, you'd be in the bathroom for two and a half hours each morning -- putting 80 layers on your face. Keep your regimen simple. And when you do add a new product, do it gradually so your skin has time to adjust. Each skincare or makeup product has an average of 20 to 40 ingredients -- you're introducing 20 to 40 potential allergens to your face every time you try something new.
Sonia Kashuk's book, Real Beauty, is available at bookstores nationwide.
Source: http://www.lhj.com/lhj/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/lhj/story/data/SoniaKashuk_10SkincareTips_05072004.xml
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Skin whitening FACTS
Have you ever wondered why early childhood photos of many top celebrities show a much darker skin color then they have now? Have you also longed for a much whiter complexion? Then you should go for skin whitening treatments. Mainly the skin whitening ingredients works in two ways to give you a whiter skin: 1. By absorbing the UV rays, thus preventing the sun from darkening your skin. 2. By reducing the production of melanin, the skin pigment found in your skin which is responsible for skin darkening.
Most skin whiteners currently on the market contain ingredients (hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, azealic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice extract)) that act as direct inhibitors of tyrosinase, the enzyme in the skin pigment cells (melanocytes) that make melanin.
Arbutin is a new type of skin de-pigmentation and whitening agents, an extract of Bearberry plant which produced by a solid /liquid extraction, an environmentally friendly process. Arbutin protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, Arbutin is a skin whitening agent which is very popular in Japan and Asian countries for skin de-pigmentation, Arbutin inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. It may be used to repress the virulence of bacterial pathogens and to prevent contaminating bacteria, it is also used for treating allergic inflammation of the skin . More recently, Arbutin has been used to prevent pigmentation and to whiten the skin beautifully. It can be used to whiten the skin, to prevent liver spots and freckles, to treat sunburn marks and to regulate melanogenesis.
Arbutin is very safe skin agent for external use which does not have toxicity, stimulation, unpleasant odor or side effect such as Hydroqinone.The encapsulation of Arbutin constitute a delivery system to potentialize the effect in time. It is a way to incorporate the hydrophilic Arbutin in lipophilic media. Arbutin give three main properties; Whitening effects, anti- age effect and UVB/ UVC filter.
There is an increasing awareness that vitamin C has a wide variety of role in human health. New therapeutic uses are being investigated daily, among recent discoveries is that Vitamin C can play important role in the health and beauty of your skin. Vitamin C as ascorbyl form has been tested extensively and reported in journal of American Academy of Dermatology to inhibit the production of the melanin (Melanin is the pigment which give the skin it's dark color), when Vitamin C inhibit the production of the melanin, a lighter and brighter skin will reveal in just few weeks.
Vitamin C does more than that also, vitamin C is required for collagen synthesis, which declines markedly in aging skin. As we grow older, we suffer diminished micro capillary circulation within our skin, which deprives our skin cells of the supply of vitamin C it needs for youthful collagen synthesis. The topical application of vitamin C in a skin-penetrating medium can dramatically enhance the availability of vitamin C for collagen production.
Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E in the skin. An antioxidant like vitamin E can only suppress a limited number of free radicals before it runs out of electrons to donate. Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E and enables vitamin E to provide sustained antioxidant protection in the skin's elastin fibers.
Vitamin C plays a vital role in skin repair. When your skin is injured, its Vitamin C content is used up rapidly in the scavenging of free radicals, and in synthesizing collagen to speed healing.
Glycyrrhetinic acid, isolated from Glycyrrihiza glabra (licorice) is widely used in cosmetic industry. Licorice inhibit tyrosinase activity of melanocytes without any cytotoxicity, it also showed that UV-B–induced pigmentation and erythema can be inhibited by topical application of 0.5% Licorice The anti-inflammatory properties of Licorice were attributed to inhibition of superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity.
As a fungal metabolic product, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. Kojic acid also is consumed widely in the Japanese diet with the belief that it is of benefit to health. Indeed, it has been shown to significantly enhance neutrophil phagocytosis and lymphocyte proliferation stimulated by phytohemagglutinin. Melanocytes treated with kojic acid become nondendritic with a decreased melanin content. Additionally, it scavenges reactive oxygen species that are excessively released from cells or generated in tissue or blood.
This tyrosinase inhibitor was isolated from a plant herbal extract. The plant roots from which paper mulberry was isolated were collected in Korea. The tyrosinase inhibition of paper mulberry was compared to kojic acid and HQ. The IC50, the concentration causing 50% inhibition of the activity of tyrosinase, was reported to be 0.396% compared to 5.5% for hydroquinone and 10.0% for kojic acid.
Melanostat is a peptide obtained by amino acid synthesis with a technique of Merryfield. It demonstrate an outstanding anti MSH activity experimentally investigated for skin lightening. The target of Melanostat the membrane receptor of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes, the B- MICR receptor , its mode of action is a competitive inhibition of alpha-MSH, membrane receptors are blocked in a natural way. The anti-MSH is a molecule naturally present in the skin. It belong to the system of regulation of the pigmentation. Melanostat counterbalances the formation of melanin and especially the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme involved in the process of pigmentation. In the skin, alpha-MSH plays an essential role in the stimulation of the synthesis of melanin. This process is under the control of an anti—MSH, also naturally present in the skin.
Recently, researches performed on alpha- MSH enabled a detailed study of the structure and function of this molecule, so as the exact determination of its receptor. This receptor is B receptor, its scientific determination is MICR receptor. The study of these molecules enabled researchers to synthesize peptides with a similar (MSH-like), or antagonist (anti-MSH) activity. The structure of Melanostat antagonist peptide of the alpha-MSH, is relatively similar to the structure of alpa-MSH. Because of this similarity, Melanostat acts while competing the receptors of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes. The action of Melanostat occurs before the action of the well-known inhibitors. Which acts on the intracellular enzyme system. Melanostat does not penetrate the cell because its competitive activity initiates on membrane receptors. Its action enables a natural and reversible blockage of the membrane receptors, without disturbing the physiological functioning of the cutaneous cells. Thus, Melanostat counteracts the formation of melanin and notably the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme of the pigmentation process of the skin. The anti-MSH molecule naturally exist in the organism, and is involved in a system that regulates melanogenesis. It is activated in season changes. When sunshine is high, the amount of alpha MSH exceed the amount of anti-MSH. The receptors for alpha-MSH multiply at the surface of the cells. The results is an increase of the synthesis of the melanin and the rise of the pigmentation of the skin. When the sunshine is low, anti-MSH exceed alpha-MSH. The receptors at the surface of the melanocytes decrease. The synthesis of melanin is not stimulated anymore, pigmentation of the skin decreases. Thus, alpha-MSH and anti-MSH play the role of accelerator or brake for the synthesis of melanin. Depending on the predominance of anti-MSH or alpha-MSH, the color of the skin evolves in a away or another.
The incorporation of Melanostat in skin lightening creams will place the skin in a physiological dominant anti-MSH situation. Its action is based on the reinforcement of the natural ability of the skin to counteract the activity of alpha-MSH. Melanostat has been investigated in vivo against alpha MSH: the darkening of the skin induced by alpha-MSH is assessed and expressed in percentage of change by comparison with the normal situation.
Retinol is the most important natural form of vitamin A. Vitamin A is the first vitamin to be used topically for the treatment of damaged human skin. Today, the term vitamin A is applied to retinol (Vitamin A alcohol), retinal (Vitamin A aldehyde) and tretinoin (Vitamin A acid). Vitamin A stimulates mitotic activity and the production of collagen - the stuff skin is made of. It is now known that the clinical effect obtained with high doses of vitamin A is necessary for normal differentiate and maintenance of epithelial tissues. Especially, retinol is held out as the new great hope for reduction of photo aging skin. Retinol or Vitamin A helps to renew and exfoliate the skin, giving a new lighter, beautiful skin.
Source: http://skin-care.health-cares.net/skin-whitening.php
Most skin whiteners currently on the market contain ingredients (hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, azealic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice extract)) that act as direct inhibitors of tyrosinase, the enzyme in the skin pigment cells (melanocytes) that make melanin.
Arbutin is a new type of skin de-pigmentation and whitening agents, an extract of Bearberry plant which produced by a solid /liquid extraction, an environmentally friendly process. Arbutin protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, Arbutin is a skin whitening agent which is very popular in Japan and Asian countries for skin de-pigmentation, Arbutin inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. It may be used to repress the virulence of bacterial pathogens and to prevent contaminating bacteria, it is also used for treating allergic inflammation of the skin . More recently, Arbutin has been used to prevent pigmentation and to whiten the skin beautifully. It can be used to whiten the skin, to prevent liver spots and freckles, to treat sunburn marks and to regulate melanogenesis.
Arbutin is very safe skin agent for external use which does not have toxicity, stimulation, unpleasant odor or side effect such as Hydroqinone.The encapsulation of Arbutin constitute a delivery system to potentialize the effect in time. It is a way to incorporate the hydrophilic Arbutin in lipophilic media. Arbutin give three main properties; Whitening effects, anti- age effect and UVB/ UVC filter.
There is an increasing awareness that vitamin C has a wide variety of role in human health. New therapeutic uses are being investigated daily, among recent discoveries is that Vitamin C can play important role in the health and beauty of your skin. Vitamin C as ascorbyl form has been tested extensively and reported in journal of American Academy of Dermatology to inhibit the production of the melanin (Melanin is the pigment which give the skin it's dark color), when Vitamin C inhibit the production of the melanin, a lighter and brighter skin will reveal in just few weeks.
Vitamin C does more than that also, vitamin C is required for collagen synthesis, which declines markedly in aging skin. As we grow older, we suffer diminished micro capillary circulation within our skin, which deprives our skin cells of the supply of vitamin C it needs for youthful collagen synthesis. The topical application of vitamin C in a skin-penetrating medium can dramatically enhance the availability of vitamin C for collagen production.
Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E in the skin. An antioxidant like vitamin E can only suppress a limited number of free radicals before it runs out of electrons to donate. Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E and enables vitamin E to provide sustained antioxidant protection in the skin's elastin fibers.
Vitamin C plays a vital role in skin repair. When your skin is injured, its Vitamin C content is used up rapidly in the scavenging of free radicals, and in synthesizing collagen to speed healing.
Glycyrrhetinic acid, isolated from Glycyrrihiza glabra (licorice) is widely used in cosmetic industry. Licorice inhibit tyrosinase activity of melanocytes without any cytotoxicity, it also showed that UV-B–induced pigmentation and erythema can be inhibited by topical application of 0.5% Licorice The anti-inflammatory properties of Licorice were attributed to inhibition of superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity.
As a fungal metabolic product, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. Kojic acid also is consumed widely in the Japanese diet with the belief that it is of benefit to health. Indeed, it has been shown to significantly enhance neutrophil phagocytosis and lymphocyte proliferation stimulated by phytohemagglutinin. Melanocytes treated with kojic acid become nondendritic with a decreased melanin content. Additionally, it scavenges reactive oxygen species that are excessively released from cells or generated in tissue or blood.
This tyrosinase inhibitor was isolated from a plant herbal extract. The plant roots from which paper mulberry was isolated were collected in Korea. The tyrosinase inhibition of paper mulberry was compared to kojic acid and HQ. The IC50, the concentration causing 50% inhibition of the activity of tyrosinase, was reported to be 0.396% compared to 5.5% for hydroquinone and 10.0% for kojic acid.
Melanostat is a peptide obtained by amino acid synthesis with a technique of Merryfield. It demonstrate an outstanding anti MSH activity experimentally investigated for skin lightening. The target of Melanostat the membrane receptor of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes, the B- MICR receptor , its mode of action is a competitive inhibition of alpha-MSH, membrane receptors are blocked in a natural way. The anti-MSH is a molecule naturally present in the skin. It belong to the system of regulation of the pigmentation. Melanostat counterbalances the formation of melanin and especially the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme involved in the process of pigmentation. In the skin, alpha-MSH plays an essential role in the stimulation of the synthesis of melanin. This process is under the control of an anti—MSH, also naturally present in the skin.
Recently, researches performed on alpha- MSH enabled a detailed study of the structure and function of this molecule, so as the exact determination of its receptor. This receptor is B receptor, its scientific determination is MICR receptor. The study of these molecules enabled researchers to synthesize peptides with a similar (MSH-like), or antagonist (anti-MSH) activity. The structure of Melanostat antagonist peptide of the alpha-MSH, is relatively similar to the structure of alpa-MSH. Because of this similarity, Melanostat acts while competing the receptors of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes. The action of Melanostat occurs before the action of the well-known inhibitors. Which acts on the intracellular enzyme system. Melanostat does not penetrate the cell because its competitive activity initiates on membrane receptors. Its action enables a natural and reversible blockage of the membrane receptors, without disturbing the physiological functioning of the cutaneous cells. Thus, Melanostat counteracts the formation of melanin and notably the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme of the pigmentation process of the skin. The anti-MSH molecule naturally exist in the organism, and is involved in a system that regulates melanogenesis. It is activated in season changes. When sunshine is high, the amount of alpha MSH exceed the amount of anti-MSH. The receptors for alpha-MSH multiply at the surface of the cells. The results is an increase of the synthesis of the melanin and the rise of the pigmentation of the skin. When the sunshine is low, anti-MSH exceed alpha-MSH. The receptors at the surface of the melanocytes decrease. The synthesis of melanin is not stimulated anymore, pigmentation of the skin decreases. Thus, alpha-MSH and anti-MSH play the role of accelerator or brake for the synthesis of melanin. Depending on the predominance of anti-MSH or alpha-MSH, the color of the skin evolves in a away or another.
The incorporation of Melanostat in skin lightening creams will place the skin in a physiological dominant anti-MSH situation. Its action is based on the reinforcement of the natural ability of the skin to counteract the activity of alpha-MSH. Melanostat has been investigated in vivo against alpha MSH: the darkening of the skin induced by alpha-MSH is assessed and expressed in percentage of change by comparison with the normal situation.
Retinol is the most important natural form of vitamin A. Vitamin A is the first vitamin to be used topically for the treatment of damaged human skin. Today, the term vitamin A is applied to retinol (Vitamin A alcohol), retinal (Vitamin A aldehyde) and tretinoin (Vitamin A acid). Vitamin A stimulates mitotic activity and the production of collagen - the stuff skin is made of. It is now known that the clinical effect obtained with high doses of vitamin A is necessary for normal differentiate and maintenance of epithelial tissues. Especially, retinol is held out as the new great hope for reduction of photo aging skin. Retinol or Vitamin A helps to renew and exfoliate the skin, giving a new lighter, beautiful skin.
Source: http://skin-care.health-cares.net/skin-whitening.php
Asian Skin Care
Asian skin tends to be smooth and poreless with yellow undertones. Asian skin is more prone to irritation. Commonly used preservatives, fragrances and alcohol suitable for Caucasian skin can actually cause irritation when used on Asian skin. Asian skin has larger pores than Caucasian skin. Asian skin has a greater need for daily exfoliation to minimize the appearance of pores and even out skin tone and texture. Asian skin is more prone to acne. Certain cosmetic grade oils and esters are not suitable for Asian skins because they are easily trapped in pores causing a blockage of cellular debris and acne. Generally, hyperpigmentation (dark spots) has an earlier onset than wrinkles and laxity (loss of firmness) on Asian skin. Pre-mature aging is less common. This explains why Asians are more concerned about skin lightening than they are about age spot treatment, which in turn is the concern of Caucasians. Skin color becomes darker with age—a function of both melanin content and hemoglobin (red blood cells) level on the skin. The Japanese have the lightest skin tone, and therefore have low melanin content and skin redness. Indians have the darkest skin tone, and therefore high melanin content and skin redness. Filipino (Malay) skin is somewhere in between. More women consider their skin acne-prone and sensitive in the summer. But while acne-prone and sensitive skin go together, the younger ones skew to the former and the older to the latter. Skin moisture decreases with age, and is exacerbated in less humid months. While it is associated with less skin moisture and more irritation, Asian skin is generally in good condition during cooler months. This is perceived to be the result of reduced sun exposure, making skin color lighter or less yellow, and improving biomechanical properties (i.e. elasticity) and structures (i.e. collagen). There is a slight increase in skin oil at this time since oil glands are working harder to compensate for lower skin moisture. As a result, fewer wrinkles are observed. Skin turns yellowish with age. This is more pronounced in Chinese and Korean skin than other racial groups. However, Filipino (Malay) skin is most sallow to begin with. Asian skin oiliness is associated with humid environment as well as high usage of foundation/powder.
The essential issue for Asian skins is finding a base that is predominantly yellow based, without being too warm and orange. Asian skin basically has yellow undertones. To get that perfectly flawless, natural look, you must wear a foundation with a yellow base. When Asian women wear foundations that are too pink or orange they often end up looking ashy and two-toned. Foundation should have yellow tones in it. Try mixing a yellow tint foundation with a shade to get the color that works best with your skin. Blues, reds and purples look beautiful on Asian skin.
Technically, not all Asians need yellow-based foundation because Asian skin has the widest pigment range. Some are even paler than most Whites. Generally speaking, however, most Asians look more natural in yellow-based foundation, as do women of all race. While most companies claim to have yellow based foundation formulas, some are more natural looking than others. Some err on being too yellow while others are still too pink.
Right shade of foundation tends to look darker in its bottle than its true color upon application. Trial-and-error is the only way to find the right shade for you. But for everyday use, tinted moisturizer may be all that you need. The color of tinted moisturizer need not be exact because their spread is so sheer, and it's good for your skin too.
Asians in general are no more oily than non-Asians but acording to dermatologists, Asian American women tend to have oilier skin than recent Asian immigrants. Some dermatologists blame this on higher fat content in our diet. It is common knowledge that diet does not directly affect skin condition, except when it is poor enough to affect one's overall health. Unexpected pimples may signal stress, hormonal imbalance, or internal health problems.
Source: http://skin-care.health-cares.net/asian-skin-care.php
The essential issue for Asian skins is finding a base that is predominantly yellow based, without being too warm and orange. Asian skin basically has yellow undertones. To get that perfectly flawless, natural look, you must wear a foundation with a yellow base. When Asian women wear foundations that are too pink or orange they often end up looking ashy and two-toned. Foundation should have yellow tones in it. Try mixing a yellow tint foundation with a shade to get the color that works best with your skin. Blues, reds and purples look beautiful on Asian skin.
Technically, not all Asians need yellow-based foundation because Asian skin has the widest pigment range. Some are even paler than most Whites. Generally speaking, however, most Asians look more natural in yellow-based foundation, as do women of all race. While most companies claim to have yellow based foundation formulas, some are more natural looking than others. Some err on being too yellow while others are still too pink.
Right shade of foundation tends to look darker in its bottle than its true color upon application. Trial-and-error is the only way to find the right shade for you. But for everyday use, tinted moisturizer may be all that you need. The color of tinted moisturizer need not be exact because their spread is so sheer, and it's good for your skin too.
Asians in general are no more oily than non-Asians but acording to dermatologists, Asian American women tend to have oilier skin than recent Asian immigrants. Some dermatologists blame this on higher fat content in our diet. It is common knowledge that diet does not directly affect skin condition, except when it is poor enough to affect one's overall health. Unexpected pimples may signal stress, hormonal imbalance, or internal health problems.
Source: http://skin-care.health-cares.net/asian-skin-care.php
Friday, September 08, 2006
Look Younger in Just 6 Simple Steps
From Julyne Derrick
Here are a few beauty tricks that will make you look younger with just a sweep of a blush brush or mascara wand.
1. Keep your hair just below the chin. Side-swept bangs & hair just below your chin will take off years.
2. Lipstick shade can age you Another trick to looking younger is to steer clear of brown lipstick shades. Here are 15 more lipstick tricks & tips .
3. Don't overpluck Once you hit your 30s, you'll want to be careful not to overpluck your eyebrows since brows are less apt to grow back if you excessively pluck. Find out what you can do to remedy overplucking.
4. Get your teeth lightened Over time, teeth may yellow from coffee, tea or red wine stains. You can whiten teeth quickly with over-the-counter products such as Crest Whitestrips.
5. Stand up straight. Think about all the sexy women you know. They stand up straigtht & confidently. Not only will this make you look 10 pounds thinner in seconds, it will make you look 5 years younger as well.
Bonus tip! Get a good night's sleep Few things age you overnight more than a poor night's sleep. Your eyes are puffy, your skin sallow & dull & your face sags.
Here are a few beauty tricks that will make you look younger with just a sweep of a blush brush or mascara wand.
1. Keep your hair just below the chin. Side-swept bangs & hair just below your chin will take off years. 2. Lipstick shade can age you Another trick to looking younger is to steer clear of brown lipstick shades. Here are 15 more lipstick tricks & tips .
3. Don't overpluck Once you hit your 30s, you'll want to be careful not to overpluck your eyebrows since brows are less apt to grow back if you excessively pluck. Find out what you can do to remedy overplucking.
4. Get your teeth lightened Over time, teeth may yellow from coffee, tea or red wine stains. You can whiten teeth quickly with over-the-counter products such as Crest Whitestrips.
5. Stand up straight. Think about all the sexy women you know. They stand up straigtht & confidently. Not only will this make you look 10 pounds thinner in seconds, it will make you look 5 years younger as well.
Bonus tip! Get a good night's sleep Few things age you overnight more than a poor night's sleep. Your eyes are puffy, your skin sallow & dull & your face sags.
Hollywood Secrets to Looking Younger
From Julyne Derrick,
Top Tips From Dermatologists & Skin Care Pros
If you're like me, you're constantly surprised when you find out how old some of Hollywood's hottest & still-working celebrities are. Who knew Susan Sarandon was on the verge of 60, or Christie Brinkley, who just landed a gig as the new face of Cover Girl is age (drumroll please)....50. Of course, looking young in Hollywood means avoiding an early, forced retirement, but just what ARE these celebrity secrets? And better yet, how can you & I benefit from what they use & what they know?
Keeping skin in gorgeous condition is an incredibly time-consuming & expensive job requirement for the typical celebrity. But here are a few secrets I've uncovered for you, plus tips on how you too can get younger-looking skin.
Secret #1: They get constant spa treatmentsSonya Dakar is Hollywood's problem skin care expert. Her Hollywood skin-care clinic is the go-to spot for celebs & socialites with acne, scarring, irritation & aging. Even those with seemingly perfect skin have imperfections (trust me, I always thought I had pretty decent skin until my consultation with Dakar -- turns out my skin was irritated & very dry). At Dakar's spa, actresses like Denise Richards, Gwyneth Paltrow & Debra Messing get their skin resurfaced, lasered, peeled or massaged by Dakar & her staff of assistants on a monthly or sometimes weekly basis. And when awards season comes around, Dakar is known to keep her office open early in the morning to late at night so stars can get their dermis in shape for the stage.
But have no fear, if you can't afford a plane ticket to Beverly Hills & The Diamond Peel done by Dakar herself, you can try her products at home. I use her irritation line & my skin has never been better. Excellent bets: Sonya Dakar Enzyme Peeling Cream $80. For irritated skin, I love her Bergamot Wash (a cleanser) followed by Dakar's Omega-3 Repair Complex, $35. Other fabulous Dakar products: Sonya Dakar Recovery, $35 & the Cellular Patch Cream, $150. Visit www.sonyadakar.com.
Secret #2: They spend money on their eyes. Yes, yes, yes, of course celebrities (the male ones as well) are constantly getting eye lifts & face lifts & the bags removed from under their eyes, but what so many of them are doing that you and I aren't is slathering on eye cream. And therein lies our secret 2.
The skin around the eyes of celebrities & common people alike is very thin & prone to early wrinkles. What the celebrities know is that a little dab of eye cream can prevent & even fix fine lines. Hollywood's favorite: Stri-Vectin SD or try Dakar's new Visualift, which is getting a ton of kudos in the press.
Secret #3: They know what cleanser to use According to dermatologist-to-the-stars, Fredric Brandt, MD (also known as the Baron of Botox), you'll benefit from using the appropriate skin cleanser. Find out what cleansers are best for your skin type.
Secret #4: They stay out of the sun Nicole Kidman is famously afraid of the sun. She stays out of it at all costs. In fact, many celebrities simply avoid that sun by wearing hats & slathering on sunscreen. Find out what the best sunscreen in the world is here .
Secret #5: They go for 'contouring' Face lifts make skin look tight, not younger. To restore youthful contours, actresses are getting injections into their checks & jawline.
Secret #6: They use the right creams To keep fine lines from becoming wrinkles, actresses in their 20s turn to retinoid creams .
Secret # 7: Their flaws are airbrushed This is my favorite secret. Not all celebrities have perfect skin. In fact, so much of skincare is about genetics. If you have bad skin genes, then chances are no amount of lotions & potions & peels & lasers are going to help your skin look like bone china (which, by the way, I just found out is made out of real bone, ewwww). The fact is Britney Spears has horrible skin. So does Cameron Diaz. Jennifer Lopez supposedly has pimples (so say those in the know). Just like magazine pros can sculpt Mariah Carey into a Giselle look-alike, they can airbrush Cameron's erupting face into Nicole Kidman perfection. So there. Now we can all rest easy, basking in our perfectly normal imperfections.
Open your eyes to the facts . . .
Though we’ve all heard the warnings about the dangers of sunbathing and the importance of sun block, the consequences of sun damage (aside from the temporary sting of sunburn) are initially invisible and are sometimes hard to comprehend. The truth is, as much as 90% of wrinkles, brown spots, and sagging skin what we usually think of as aging an be attributed to sun damage, says the American Skin Association, a national organization for education on skin health. What’s worse, skin cancer is now the most common cancer, striking more than 800,000 Americans each year, according to the American Cancer Society. If you’re still tempted to head out the door without sun protection, stop to consider what’s going to happen to your skin.Melanin, the protective pigment found in the epidermis, defends the skin against sun damage by absorbing the sun’s rays and dissipating the energy as heat. The more sun exposure, the more melanin the skin produces, which results in a suntan sign that the skin has already been damaged by ultraviolet (UVI rays). If sun exposure continues, the UV rays will damage cells and blood vessels in the outer layer of skin, causing the redness and painful inflammation of sunburn, actually a minor burn.
Yet sunburn isn’t the worst result of sun exposure. According to a report in the April 26, 1997, Science News, the UV rays that are not absorbed by melanin may prompt the formation of free radicals, destructive scavenger molecules. Because free radicals lack electrons, they attempt to steal electrons from other molecules, damaging the molecules in the process. Free radicals that get inside a cell can damage the cell’s genetic material and cause mutations, and they may even trigger cancer.
But the damage doesn’t stop there. Urocranic acid, a chemical found in the epidermis, also reacts with ultraviolet light. The reaction also creates free radicals, which then break down the collagen and elastin in the skin, causing wrinkles. In addition, the sun’s rays are thought to decrease immune system function within the skin, meaning that any invading organisms have a better chance of causing infection.
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/
Wednesday, September 06, 2006
How to Fade Age Spots?
If you notice brown spots on your skin, up to about an inch in diameter, then you may have solar spots or solar lentigos. These age spots result from years of sun exposure.
The age spots most commonly appear on the back of your hands, chest, or face. These are areas of the skin that typically receive the most sun exposure throughout your lifetime.
The best ways to prevent age spots are to avoid sun exposure, particularly sunbathing, and use sunscreen regularly (SPF 15 or higher).
However, this will not get rid of age spots you already have.
To reduce and fade the appearance of age spots, see your family doctor or dermatologist. He or she can recommend a prescription or over-the-counter skin cream containing alpha-hydroxy or retinoic acid.
If you use alpha-hydroxy or retinoic acid creams, make sure you put on sunscreen, because these creams contain chemicals that can increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun rays.
Laser treatment against age spots is another option. Although this method of treatment is more expensive, it does offer immediate results.
(http://www.free-beauty-tips.com)
Saturday, September 02, 2006
Skin whitening Ingredients you should know!
Have you ever wondered why early childhood photos of many top celebrities show a much darker skin color then they have now? Have you also longed for a much whiter complexion? Then you should go for skin whitening treatments. Mainly the skin whitening ingredients works in two ways to give you a whiter skin:
1. By absorbing the UV rays, thus preventing the sun from darkening your skin.
2. By reducing the production of melanin, the skin pigment found in your skin which is responsible for skin darkening.
Most skin whiteners currently on the market contain ingredients (hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, azealic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice extract)) that act as direct inhibitors of tyrosinase, the enzyme in the skin pigment cells (melanocytes) that make melanin.
Arbutin is a new type of skin de-pigmentation and whitening agents, an extract of Bearberry plant which produced by a solid /liquid extraction, an environmentally friendly process. Arbutin protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, Arbutin is a skin whitening agent which is very popular in Japan and Asian countries for skin de-pigmentation, Arbutin inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. It may be used to repress the virulence of bacterial pathogens and to prevent contaminating bacteria, it is also used for treating allergic inflammation of the skin . More recently, Arbutin has been used to prevent pigmentation and to whiten the skin beautifully. It can be used to whiten the skin, to prevent liver spots and freckles, to treat sunburn marks and to regulate melanogenesis.
Arbutin is very safe skin agent for external use which does not have toxicity, stimulation, unpleasant odor or side effect such as Hydroqinone.The encapsulation of Arbutin constitute a delivery system to potentialize the effect in time. It is a way to incorporate the hydrophilic Arbutin in lipophilic media. Arbutin give three main properties; Whitening effects, anti- age effect and UVB/ UVC filter .
There is an increasing awareness that vitamin C has a wide variety of role in human health. New therapeutic uses are being investigated daily, among recent discoveries is that Vitamin C can play important role in the health and beauty of your skin. Vitamin C as ascorbyl form has been tested extensively and reported in journal of American Academy of Dermatology to inhibit the production of the melanin (Melanin is the pigment which give the skin it's dark color), when Vitamin C inhibit the production of the melanin, a lighter and brighter skin will reveal in just few weeks.
Vitamin C does more than that also, vitamin C is required for collagen synthesis, which declines markedly in aging skin. As we grow older, we suffer diminished micro capillary circulation within our skin, which deprives our skin cells of the supply of vitamin C it needs for youthful collagen synthesis. The topical application of vitamin C in a skin-penetrating medium can dramatically enhance the availability of vitamin C for collagen production.
Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E in the skin. An antioxidant like vitamin E can only suppress a limited number of free radicals before it runs out of electrons to donate. Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E and enables vitamin E to provide sustained antioxidant protection in the skin's elastin fibers.
Vitamin C plays a vital role in skin repair. When your skin is injured, its Vitamin C content is used up rapidly in the scavenging of free radicals, and in synthesizing collagen to speed healing.
Glycyrrhetinic acid, isolated from Glycyrrihiza glabra (licorice) is widely used in cosmetic industry. Licorice inhibit tyrosinase activity of melanocytes without any cytotoxicity, it also showed that UV-B–induced pigmentation and erythema can be inhibited by topical application of 0.5% Licorice The anti-inflammatory properties of Licorice were attributed to inhibition of superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity.
As a fungal metabolic product, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. Kojic acid also is consumed widely in the Japanese diet with the belief that it is of benefit to health. Indeed, it has been shown to significantly enhance neutrophil phagocytosis and lymphocyte proliferation stimulated by phytohemagglutinin. Melanocytes treated with kojic acid become nondendritic with a decreased melanin content. Additionally, it scavenges reactive oxygen species that are excessively released from cells or generated in tissue or blood.
This tyrosinase inhibitor was isolated from a plant herbal extract. The plant roots from which paper mulberry was isolated were collected in Korea. The tyrosinase inhibition of paper mulberry was compared to kojic acid and HQ. The IC50, the concentration causing 50% inhibition of the activity of tyrosinase, was reported to be 0.396% compared to 5.5% for hydroquinone and 10.0% for kojic acid.
Melanostat is a peptide obtained by amino acid synthesis with a technique of Merryfield. It demonstrate an outstanding anti MSH activity experimentally investigated for skin lightening. The target of Melanostat the membrane receptor of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes, the B- MICR receptor , its mode of action is a competitive inhibition of alpha-MSH, membrane receptors are blocked in a natural way. The anti-MSH is a molecule naturally present in the skin. It belong to the system of regulation of the pigmentation. Melanostat counterbalances the formation of melanin and especially the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme involved in the process of pigmentation. In the skin, alpha-MSH plays an essential role in the stimulation of the synthesis of melanin. This process is under the control of an anti—MSH, also naturally present in the skin.
Recently, researches performed on alpha- MSH enabled a detailed study of the structure and function of this molecule, so as the exact determination of its receptor. This receptor is B receptor, its scientific determination is MICR receptor. The study of these molecules enabled researchers to synthesize peptides with a similar (MSH-like), or antagonist (anti-MSH) activity. The structure of Melanostat antagonist peptide of the alpha-MSH, is relatively similar to the structure of alpa-MSH. Because of this similarity, Melanostat acts while competing the receptors of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes. The action of Melanostat occurs before the action of the well-known inhibitors. Which acts on the intracellular enzyme system. Melanostat does not penetrate the cell because its competitive activity initiates on membrane receptors. Its action enables a natural and reversible blockage of the membrane receptors, without disturbing the physiological functioning of the cutaneous cells. Thus, Melanostat counteracts the formation of melanin and notably the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme of the pigmentation process of the skin. The anti-MSH molecule naturally exist in the organism, and is involved in a system that regulates melanogenesis. It is activated in season changes. When sunshine is high, the amount of alpha MSH exceed the amount of anti-MSH. The receptors for alpha-MSH multiply at the surface of the cells. The results is an increase of the synthesis of the melanin and the rise of the pigmentation of the skin. When the sunshine is low, anti-MSH exceed alpha-MSH. The receptors at the surface of the melanocytes decrease. The synthesis of melanin is not stimulated anymore, pigmentation of the skin decreases. Thus, alpha-MSH and anti-MSH play the role of accelerator or brake for the synthesis of melanin. Depending on the predominance of anti-MSH or alpha-MSH, the color of the skin evolves in a away or another.
The incorporation of Melanostat in skin lightening creams will place the skin in a physiological dominant anti-MSH situation. Its action is based on the reinforcement of the natural ability of the skin to counteract the activity of alpha-MSH. Melanostat has been investigated in vivo against alpha MSH: the darkening of the skin induced by alpha-MSH is assessed and expressed in percentage of change by comparison with the normal situation.
Retinol is the most important natural form of vitamin A. Vitamin A is the first vitamin to be used topically for the treatment of damaged human skin. Today, the term vitamin A is applied to retinol (Vitamin A alcohol), retinal (Vitamin A aldehyde) and tretinoin (Vitamin A acid). Vitamin A stimulates mitotic activity and the production of collagen - the stuff skin is made of. It is now known that the clinical effect obtained with high doses of vitamin A is necessary for normal differentiate and maintenance of epithelial tissues. Especially, retinol is held out as the new great hope for reduction of photo aging skin. Retinol or Vitamin A helps to renew and exfoliate the skin, giving a new lighter, beautiful skin.
(Source: http://skin-care.health-cares.net/skin-whitening.php)
1. By absorbing the UV rays, thus preventing the sun from darkening your skin.
2. By reducing the production of melanin, the skin pigment found in your skin which is responsible for skin darkening.
Most skin whiteners currently on the market contain ingredients (hydroquinone, ascorbic acid, kojic acid, arbutin, azealic acid, glycyrrhetinic acid (licorice extract)) that act as direct inhibitors of tyrosinase, the enzyme in the skin pigment cells (melanocytes) that make melanin.
Arbutin is a new type of skin de-pigmentation and whitening agents, an extract of Bearberry plant which produced by a solid /liquid extraction, an environmentally friendly process. Arbutin protect the skin against damage caused by free radicals, Arbutin is a skin whitening agent which is very popular in Japan and Asian countries for skin de-pigmentation, Arbutin inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. It may be used to repress the virulence of bacterial pathogens and to prevent contaminating bacteria, it is also used for treating allergic inflammation of the skin . More recently, Arbutin has been used to prevent pigmentation and to whiten the skin beautifully. It can be used to whiten the skin, to prevent liver spots and freckles, to treat sunburn marks and to regulate melanogenesis.
Arbutin is very safe skin agent for external use which does not have toxicity, stimulation, unpleasant odor or side effect such as Hydroqinone.The encapsulation of Arbutin constitute a delivery system to potentialize the effect in time. It is a way to incorporate the hydrophilic Arbutin in lipophilic media. Arbutin give three main properties; Whitening effects, anti- age effect and UVB/ UVC filter .
There is an increasing awareness that vitamin C has a wide variety of role in human health. New therapeutic uses are being investigated daily, among recent discoveries is that Vitamin C can play important role in the health and beauty of your skin. Vitamin C as ascorbyl form has been tested extensively and reported in journal of American Academy of Dermatology to inhibit the production of the melanin (Melanin is the pigment which give the skin it's dark color), when Vitamin C inhibit the production of the melanin, a lighter and brighter skin will reveal in just few weeks.
Vitamin C does more than that also, vitamin C is required for collagen synthesis, which declines markedly in aging skin. As we grow older, we suffer diminished micro capillary circulation within our skin, which deprives our skin cells of the supply of vitamin C it needs for youthful collagen synthesis. The topical application of vitamin C in a skin-penetrating medium can dramatically enhance the availability of vitamin C for collagen production.
Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E in the skin. An antioxidant like vitamin E can only suppress a limited number of free radicals before it runs out of electrons to donate. Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E and enables vitamin E to provide sustained antioxidant protection in the skin's elastin fibers.
Vitamin C plays a vital role in skin repair. When your skin is injured, its Vitamin C content is used up rapidly in the scavenging of free radicals, and in synthesizing collagen to speed healing.
Glycyrrhetinic acid, isolated from Glycyrrihiza glabra (licorice) is widely used in cosmetic industry. Licorice inhibit tyrosinase activity of melanocytes without any cytotoxicity, it also showed that UV-B–induced pigmentation and erythema can be inhibited by topical application of 0.5% Licorice The anti-inflammatory properties of Licorice were attributed to inhibition of superoxide anion production and cyclooxygenase activity.
As a fungal metabolic product, kojic acid inhibits the catecholase activity of tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting, essential enzyme in the biosynthesis of the skin pigment melanin. Kojic acid also is consumed widely in the Japanese diet with the belief that it is of benefit to health. Indeed, it has been shown to significantly enhance neutrophil phagocytosis and lymphocyte proliferation stimulated by phytohemagglutinin. Melanocytes treated with kojic acid become nondendritic with a decreased melanin content. Additionally, it scavenges reactive oxygen species that are excessively released from cells or generated in tissue or blood.
This tyrosinase inhibitor was isolated from a plant herbal extract. The plant roots from which paper mulberry was isolated were collected in Korea. The tyrosinase inhibition of paper mulberry was compared to kojic acid and HQ. The IC50, the concentration causing 50% inhibition of the activity of tyrosinase, was reported to be 0.396% compared to 5.5% for hydroquinone and 10.0% for kojic acid.
Melanostat is a peptide obtained by amino acid synthesis with a technique of Merryfield. It demonstrate an outstanding anti MSH activity experimentally investigated for skin lightening. The target of Melanostat the membrane receptor of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes, the B- MICR receptor , its mode of action is a competitive inhibition of alpha-MSH, membrane receptors are blocked in a natural way. The anti-MSH is a molecule naturally present in the skin. It belong to the system of regulation of the pigmentation. Melanostat counterbalances the formation of melanin and especially the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme involved in the process of pigmentation. In the skin, alpha-MSH plays an essential role in the stimulation of the synthesis of melanin. This process is under the control of an anti—MSH, also naturally present in the skin.
Recently, researches performed on alpha- MSH enabled a detailed study of the structure and function of this molecule, so as the exact determination of its receptor. This receptor is B receptor, its scientific determination is MICR receptor. The study of these molecules enabled researchers to synthesize peptides with a similar (MSH-like), or antagonist (anti-MSH) activity. The structure of Melanostat antagonist peptide of the alpha-MSH, is relatively similar to the structure of alpa-MSH. Because of this similarity, Melanostat acts while competing the receptors of alpha-MSH on the melanocytes. The action of Melanostat occurs before the action of the well-known inhibitors. Which acts on the intracellular enzyme system. Melanostat does not penetrate the cell because its competitive activity initiates on membrane receptors. Its action enables a natural and reversible blockage of the membrane receptors, without disturbing the physiological functioning of the cutaneous cells. Thus, Melanostat counteracts the formation of melanin and notably the synthesis of tyrosinase, key enzyme of the pigmentation process of the skin. The anti-MSH molecule naturally exist in the organism, and is involved in a system that regulates melanogenesis. It is activated in season changes. When sunshine is high, the amount of alpha MSH exceed the amount of anti-MSH. The receptors for alpha-MSH multiply at the surface of the cells. The results is an increase of the synthesis of the melanin and the rise of the pigmentation of the skin. When the sunshine is low, anti-MSH exceed alpha-MSH. The receptors at the surface of the melanocytes decrease. The synthesis of melanin is not stimulated anymore, pigmentation of the skin decreases. Thus, alpha-MSH and anti-MSH play the role of accelerator or brake for the synthesis of melanin. Depending on the predominance of anti-MSH or alpha-MSH, the color of the skin evolves in a away or another.
The incorporation of Melanostat in skin lightening creams will place the skin in a physiological dominant anti-MSH situation. Its action is based on the reinforcement of the natural ability of the skin to counteract the activity of alpha-MSH. Melanostat has been investigated in vivo against alpha MSH: the darkening of the skin induced by alpha-MSH is assessed and expressed in percentage of change by comparison with the normal situation.
Retinol is the most important natural form of vitamin A. Vitamin A is the first vitamin to be used topically for the treatment of damaged human skin. Today, the term vitamin A is applied to retinol (Vitamin A alcohol), retinal (Vitamin A aldehyde) and tretinoin (Vitamin A acid). Vitamin A stimulates mitotic activity and the production of collagen - the stuff skin is made of. It is now known that the clinical effect obtained with high doses of vitamin A is necessary for normal differentiate and maintenance of epithelial tissues. Especially, retinol is held out as the new great hope for reduction of photo aging skin. Retinol or Vitamin A helps to renew and exfoliate the skin, giving a new lighter, beautiful skin.
(Source: http://skin-care.health-cares.net/skin-whitening.php)
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